Noblesse Oblige – and a little something about Language

posted in: knitting history, patterns | 0

Noblesse Oblige is the latest pattern in the ‘Knits for A Cold Climate‘ collection.

And I am extremely excited to announce that it is designed by my good friend and collaborator, the extremely talented designer, Karie Westermann. Karie is not only a marvel at designing but has an incredible knowledge about the English language. When we decided on the name for this design it seemed to make perfect sense that its name would therefore be Noblesse Oblige.

I would now like to pass you over to Karie to tell you a little more about her fabulous design:

“When I was given the design brief by Susan, I knew I wanted to use the wonderful colour range in Fenella. Inspired by my recent forays into knitting archives, I began sketching Fair Isle bands but it was not until I uncovered a photo of a 1930s knitting pattern that I decided upon the colour scheme. The jumper is charming, but I fell in love with the red/green/yellow motif. Could I use these colours in a more traditional setting?

After several attempts, I hit upon a 1930s inspired hat and scarf using that red/green/yellow combination, but also tempered by a soft porcelain blue and a delightful creamy white. The jaunty beret features two Fair Isle bands that counteract each other to create a sense of dynamism.

The scarf comes in three sizes – you can make it a neckerchief, a small scarf or a full-sized shawl. To optimise knitting pleasure, the scarf does not use Fair Isle bands but features narrow stripes in a colour sequence that calls back to the beret. After much discussion, Susan and I agreed that small, felted pompoms would add a delightful finishing touch.

Naming the pattern was harder. I wanted to use one of Nancy Mitford’s book titles, but neither Christmas Pudding nor Pigeon Pie seemed appropriate! Finally, Noblesse Oblige seemed to suggest itself – it is a collection of essays and I rather enjoyed Nancy Mitford’s essay on the English language. So, Noblesse Oblige. A lovely hat and scarf set. I hope you will enjoy knitting it.

But let’s talk about Nancy Mitford’s essay briefly.

Found in Noblesse Oblige, “The English Aristocracy” is her most famous essay. Nancy Mitford had recently read an academic article by a British linguist and was inspired to write her own examination of how the British upper class (“U”) and the middle class (“non-U”) spoke. The essay is very much of its time – apparently only non-U people would speak of telephones! – but that is also part of its appeal. It is a snapshot of a world in transition where old notions of class and importance are slowly eroding. It is particularly interesting to compare Mitford’s essay to Grayson Perry’s TV documentaries about Class in Britain. The economic barriers between the classes may have eroded, but cultural markers such as language and taste have not.

“The English Aristocracy” is an early example of what we know today as sociolinguistics. A “sociolect” is a type of language associated with one socioeconomic class, age group or gender. The British 1990s sit-com Keeping Up Appearances uses Mitford’s little U vs non-U markers and sociolects to great comic effect. The main protagonist, Hyacinth Bucket, insists her surname is pronounced Bouquet, and she keeps grasping at big, fancy words in her attempt to sound more refined (something Mitford notes is the true mark of a social climber – why use the word “lavatory” when “loo” is perfectly adequate?). The underlying class anxiety so evident in Mitford’s 1950s essay is very much visible even forty and fifty years on.

If you have half an hour to spare, I suggest you read Mitford’s little essay in Noblesse Oblige – I assure you that you will notice amusing little things about how you and the people around you speak.”

Thank you so much Karie for sharing the thought processes behind your design with us.

Now for the important pattern details:

 

You can buy the PDF  pattern from the Susan Crawford shop here
 
OR
 
You can buy the pattern from Ravelry here. (You do not need to be a member of ravelry to make a purchase from the site.)
 
The PDF pattern costs £4
 
You can also purchase or take a look at all the possible colour combinations of Fenella on the shop
here  and a kit will also be available from my shop here.
Materials Required:
 
Beret Only (both sizes)
1 skein each of shades Myrtle, Atomic Red, Chalk, Jonquil, Porcellana
Neckerchief/Scarflette/Shawl Only
1 (2, 3) skeins of shade Myrtle 1 skein each of shades Atomic Red, Chalk, Jonquil and Porcellana
Beret plus Neckerchief/Scarflette/Shawl
2 (3, 4) skeins of shade Myrtle 
1 skein each of shades Atomic Red, Chalk, Jonquil and Porcellana
Needles and Notions Needed
Set of 2.25mm (US 1) double pointed needles 
Set of 3mm (US 2) double pointed needles 
1 pair of 3mm (US 2) needles or 3mm circular needle 
Stitch markers 
Pom pom maker or small piece of cardboard
I hope you’ll agree with me that this is a truly beautiful ensemble. Later this week I will share my blocking tips for the beret and also how I made the felted pom poms.
 
for now,
Susan xx

 

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